The size of swell is based on: 1. ____ - how strong the wind is 2. ____ - how long the wind blows for 3.____ - how far the wind blows Swell characteristics useful to know: 1. ____ - the time (in seconds) between swell crests. The longer the time (high period) the stronger the waves 2. ____ - how high waves are (measured from the crest and the preceding trough of a wave) 3. ____ - which compass direction is the swell coming from? The more exposed the coastline, the bigger the surf conditions Drag the correct wave type to its definition: 1. ____ - big dumping waves that usually break in shallow water. Most hazardous wave types. Experienced surfers love them. 2. ____ - tumbling waves generally safe for swimmers 3. ____ - waves that do not break and often seen near rock ledges. Do not lose speed or gain height. Dangerous to rock fishers. What's the wind type? 1. ____: They blow towards the land from the ocean and cause choppy conditions 2. ____: They blow towards the ocean from the land and cause a smoother ocean surface.
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Waves
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Michelle41
Secondary
Science
Oceans and coastal processes
Waves and sound
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