Coast, Coasts are the transition zone/meeting point of land and sea and are an open system, Open system, A system that allows both energy and matter (e.g. sediment, water) to enter and leave across its boundaries., Erosion, The process where natural agents like water, ice, and wind wear away and transport rock, soil, and sediment from the Earth's surface., Weathering, The breakdown or dissolving of rocks and minerals on the Earth's surface without moving them., Onshore, Towards the land / the landward side of the coastline (the area on the land side of the shoreline)., Offshore, Towards the sea / the seaward side of the coastline (the area out to sea from the shoreline)., Fetch, The uninterrupted distance of open water over which the wind blows in the same direction, generating waves. Longer fetch produces larger, more powerful waves., Wave energy, The energy carried by waves, determined mainly by wind strength, wind duration and fetch. Higher wave energy causes more erosion and transport., Wavelength, The horizontal distance between two successive wave crests (or two successive troughs). Crest = the highest point of a wave; Trough = the lowest point of a wave., Swash, The forward movement of water (and sediment) up the beach after a wave breaks., Backwash, The return flow of water (and sediment) down the beach towards the sea under gravity after the swash., Constructive wave, Low-energy waves with long wavelength, low height and low frequency (≈6–8 per minute). Strong swash and weak backwash → net deposition that builds up beaches., Destructive wave, High-energy waves with short wavelength, high height and high frequency. Weak swash and strong backwash → net erosion that removes beach material., Gradient, The slope or steepness of a beach or cliff (steep gradient = steeper profile)., Sediment, Loose material (sand, shingle, pebbles, mud, etc.) that is eroded, transported and deposited by waves, currents and wind along the coast., Transportation, The movement of eroded rock, sediment, and dissolved minerals (known as the river's load) downstream by the force of flowing water., Hydraulic action, Erosion process in which the force of waves compresses air (and water) into cracks in rocks; when the wave retreats the pressure is released, weakening and breaking the rock., Cavitation, A form of hydraulic action in which compressed air in rock cracks expands explosively when the wave retreats, or high-pressure air bubbles implode, generating shock waves that further fracture the rock., Longshore drift, The zigzag transportation of sediment along the coast. Waves approach at an angle (swash carries material up the beach at an angle); backwash returns it straight down the beach under gravity. Net movement is parallel to the shoreline in the direction of the prevailing wind/waves., Cliff, A steep or vertical rock face formed by wave erosion (especially undercutting at the base) and subsequent collapse of the unsupported rock above., Mass movement, The downward movement of rock, soil, and debris along a slope, driven primarily by the force of gravity., Abrasion, The mechanical process where moving natural agents like water, ice, or wind scrape, grind, and wear away rock surfaces using transported particles. (sandpaper effect), Corrosion, The chemical process where slightly acidic water dissolves soluble minerals and rocks, such as limestone and chalk, causing them to break down and erode, Attrition, An erosional process where transported rocks and sediment particles An erosional process where transported rocks and sediment particles collide with one another, breaking down into smaller, smoother, and more rounded pieces. It does not erode the coast, but does form small pebbles and sand. with one another, breaking down into smaller, smoother, and more rounded pieces.
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